Monday, October 15, 2018
The archipelago that forms the Seychelles is made up of over 1000 islands ranging from Mahe, the largest and main island (157 sq. km.) to rocky points jutting just above the ocean's surface. Victoria, located on Mahe, is the largest city and the capital of the Seychelles.
As we flew south from Doha, Qatar early this morning, the sun put on a spectacular show in the east, rising slowly behind and then above the horizon and the water. A myriad of oranges, yellows and reds danced on the horizon, making the islands in the distance glitter like sparkling gold. When the sun finally arose, the sky transformed to red. It was amazing to watch from so far above the water.
We disembarked the plane in Victoria (Mahe) and had just a short wait before the final leg of our journey commenced, a 25 minute flight on a very small plane to the island of Praslin. We were very tired and simply eager to arrive. The airport was small and efficient and it was not very long before we were on the road in our tiny rental vehicle making our way along the only main road on the island toward our home for the next 4 days.
The road on Praslin is winding and narrow with very deep ditches with vertical walls. Driving on the left and driving a manual transmission are both skills that are a bit rusty. Especially in a deep state of fatigue, it was necessary to will myself to concentrate as we made our way about 20 kilometres to our guesthouse. Success was upon us as we travelled along the final short stretch of this circuitous route, including a couple of very steep slopes as we ascended or descended the mountains. The last 200 meters were pure sand. We wondered if we were even on a road. But then, Le Chevalier Bay Guesthouse appeared and we were home.
A lovely Australian family operates the guesthouse and shared their warmth in their welcome. The land has been in the family for over 100 years, first owned by Vito's grandfather, then by Vito's father, and just 4 months ago, it was transferred into Vito's name and the family relocated from Perth to Chevalier Bay to become innkeepers.
Jim, as always, had researched well and we immediately fell in love with the guesthouse on this remote tip of the island. The beach, just across the sandy road, has been dubbed by some as the best beach on the island. There are shade trees along the shore, a beautiful expanse of sand inviting on to walk, a gradual entrance into the water, water which is as warm as tropical water can be, absolutely luxurious. There are also reefs to the north and south of the main beach where snorkelling is reported to be amazing - giant sea turtles, manta rays, and a myriad of colourful fish just waiting to be discovered. There is also a remarkable outcrop of huge granite rocks that have been deposited in a cluster on the shore. From whence did these arrive? They certainly provide many wonderful photography opportunities, with or without people in them.
Lunch, followed by a welcome nap, followed by a refreshing shower gave us some energy to make our way through the rest of the day. Sadly, bathing suits and clean clothes were non-existent as our large suitcases had both been left behind in Doha due to an extremely tight connection time. Qatar Airways has confidently told us that they will arrive at our guesthouse tomorrow.
An afternoon coffee, a drive to the store for some snacks and drinks, and a short walk on the beach on in the water completed the daylight hours. By the time we returned to the guesthouse, it was dark and everyone was using headlights. It seemed to make the narrow road even more treacherous. Once again, we arrived at our accommodation safely.
As we awaited our dinner, we encountered another couple and engaged in a lively conversation with them, Tim and Zoe from California. Zoe actually works in Iraq on a major project refurbishing the Mosul Dam. She and Tim meet at various places around the world to travel together. They, like us, have had some amazing experiences. We decided to have dinner together which was a lot of fun, time filled with stories, laughter, and tasty food.
And now it is 10 pm, local time (Seychelles is 8 hours ahead of Eastern Standard time) and it is time for bed. No doubt tomorrow will be another wonderful day in this island paradise.
Tuesday, October 16, 2018
The day dawned bright and beautiful ... and so did we. A good night's sleep can cure whatever ails you. We were both feeling rested and energetic and up for an adventure. After a delicious breakfast served by our hosts, we set out to explore at least part of this small island.
One of the challenges we faced is the lack of parking areas anywhere along the roadway. At times the road is too narrow for two cars to meet. One has to calculate carefully so that you do not end up headlight to headlight with an oncoming vehicle. At times the roadway is just barely wide enough for two cars to pass by one another. My approach is to stop and let the other car do the manouvering. A somewhat wider roadway has a faint white middle line which exclusively indicates and no passing zone. And finally, there is a part of the road that is wide enough for two cars to pass by one another comfortably. This stretch has the lanes divided by a solid yellow line. Busses and trucks can pose a challenge on any of these roads. On no section of this road were there shoulders or parking lanes. Vehicles simply stopped to run into a shop, to buy some fresh mangoes from a roadside stand, even to take photos of some of the many stunning views. Tourists, no doubt!!
The terrain on Praslin is extremely mountainous. High on the hills it is possible to see vast seascapes and other nearby islands. The waterways are quite quiet except for an occasional floating taxi or a chartered catamaran heading for the next quiet bay to do some snorkelling, fishing, swimming or all of the above. Thick vegetation lines the hillsides and valleys. It varies from tall palm trees to thick deciduous forests, to scrubby shrubs ad grasses. All the vegetation is very much alive and thriving.
There is little sign of serious agriculture. Most food products are imported although local fish is available in some shops and restaurants. Prices are sky high to eat out or to purchase food at grocery stores. A simple plate of grilled fish in a restaurant is 310 Seychelle rupees (approx $30.00 Cdn) and a creole shrimp dish is 450 Seychelle rupees (approx $45.00 Cdn) A pineapple in the grocery store costs about $19.00 Cdn. To date, we have only eaten in 2 restaurants and in both, the food was delicious and nicely presented on the plates.
We did make a stop in a Praslin National Park, a World Heritage Area, to visit the Vallée de Mai. This lush tropical area features several species native to the Seychelles. A very knowledgable guide led a tour through the forest, pointing out both vegetation and wildlife. Along the way, a Seychelles tree frog was spotted; many Seychelles bulbul (bird) were seen; a Seychelles blue pigeon was visible but would not show his face, only his backside. Sadly, the elusive Seychelles Black Parrot was neither seen nor heard on this tour in spite of a valiant effort by the tour guide to find one.
The most significant vegetation found in this park is the Coco de Mer. It is one of six endemic palm species found in this valley. Its claim to fame is that it produces the largest seed in the world, gaining it the World Heritage Area status. Coco de Mer only grows naturally on this island and nearby Curieuse Island. The female tree produces a fruit up to 25 kilograms. It's distinct shape similar to a woman's pelvic region gained it notariety in former royal courts. The male species is equally striking. Fallic shapes rise many feet from the leafy crowns. Pollination occurs through wind action or by green geckoes who carry pollen from the male plant to the female plant. After the fertilized seed falls to the ground, the female plant drips nutrients from its leaves to the ground where fallen seeds germinate. Reminiscent of maternal care, it is unique in the plant world.
It was time to stop for lunch so we headed to a highly recommended restaurant that, by reputation, serves excellent food and has amazing views. Sadly, when we arrived, having made it up the treacherously steep and long driveway, it was closed for renovations and will reopen several days after we depart. We did take time to drink in the view though. It certainly lived up to its description.
So we headed back toward our guesthouse and stopped for lunch at Bon Bon Plume, another highly recommended eatery located right on the beach. The food was delicious and plentiful. Jim had creole shrimp and I had curried crab. Both dishes were excellent although I will say the crab took a long time to remove from the shell and my fingers were covered with curry colour. Our table overlooked Anse Lazio Bay, a very sheltered bay which attracts a large number of chartered sailing ships. Seven were anchored in the bay while we ate. It was amazing to see the kinds of water toys that such ships carry. The passengers were certainly having a great time on the water.
We were very close to 'home' and the afternoon was waning. We returned to our guesthouse and once again had the luxury of a late afternoon nap. It is hard to be patient with the need to adjust to our new time zone.
Because we are so close to the equator (between 4 and 10º south), day and night are almost equal in length. At approximately 6 pm, the sun makes a rapid descent in the west and at 6 am, the sun reappears in the east. There is virtually no twilight. The world transforms in a matter of minutes from light to dark and dark to light. This means the evening begins at 6 and extends many hours into the night. We are far out into the countryside and there is virtually no ambient light. We have spent the last two evenings sitting on the wide covered porch of our guesthouse. It is so quiet and peaceful there.
And another day draws to a close ...
PS A very exciting event occurred during Tuesday afternoon. Our luggage arrived!!! Right into our room!!!
Wednesday, October 17, 2018
We have not forgotten that this is a game-changing day for Canada. Consumption of cannibis has gained legal status.
So now we can swim! And swim we did. We had another delicious breakfast at the guesthouse and headed immediately to the beach, snorkelling gear in hand. we are located on Anse Lazio Bay which features an amazing sand beach as well as two significant coral deposits where snorkelling is great.
We started the day at the north end of the bay, taking time to simply enjoy the luxury of being in a tropical sea. The water was pristeen and warm enough to walk in with nary a shiver. Of course, we took some photos (here we are!!) and settled ourselves in a comfortable and shady location. Lathered with sunscreen, we both made our way into the water and luxuriated in the beauty and the comfort of this natural phenomenon. Many of you know that I am a floater. I simply lay back and let the water do the rest. I enjoyed many minutes of this effortless activity before becoming more playful interacting with the water and with Jim.
While enjoying our initial swim, we were also watching other people who were snorkelling. We determined where we felt the best area would be and donned our snorkelling gear and headed over there. We were not disappointed. In fact we were amazed at the variety of species and size of fish we saw. The water was relatively shallow so it was easy to see fish at all levels. It took a little while to adjust to breathing through our snorkels but once we mastered that again we were away to the races. The coral was not very colourful but the range of fish made up for that.
Somewhat later, we paused to have some lunch, again at the Bon Bon Plume. Delicious yesterday, it was equally tasty today. Jim had grilled fish and I had shrimp creole. Yum!
Jim took a short nap and I enjoyed my book while I waited for him. And then ... back into the water we went. More fish, more floating. It was not as great as this morning as the tide had receded a lot leaving sandy water behind and some very shallow viewing areas. Nonetheless, we had a good time and did not get out of the water until we were quite exhausted. Fortunately the car was close by and so was our guesthouse.
But there was one more thing to do before we headed 'home'. Giant tortoises are native to some islands on the Seychelles. Aldabra is the only island where the tortoises did not become extinct because tortoises were used as a meat source for passing ships. Charles Darwin suggested to someone that to ensure that the Aldabra tortoises did not also go extinct, that some of the tortoises should be moved to Curieuse Island to preserve them. On this advice, action was taken and the tortoise populations on Curieuse and Aldabra are still alive and well. Perhaps this has something to do with the remoteness and inaccessibility of Aldabra. And maybe because, following the moving of the tortoises to Curieuse, that island was declared a leper colony and no one was allowed to visit. Hmmm ... interesting thinking.
At any rate, about 20 giant tortoises are also in a small enclosure at Bon Bon Plume. So we took a few moments to visit them there. It was like a flashback to visiting the Galapagos Islands in 1977. Huge creatures, more than a metre across the shell, prehistoric in appearance, wide awake and watching us closely. Unlike in the Galapagos in '77, we were not allowed to touch them. And they were not active in the heat of the afternoon. Some of them did move their heads which reassured us that they were indeed alive. Nonetheless, it was an awesome sight!!
Now it was time to go home, remove the salt water from our bodies and relax for the evening. We sat on the porch until well after dark, chatting with a young couple from Germany who are travelling with their 3 children. They were hoping they would all be asleep when they went back into their apartment.
And now we are in our room. Jim is reading and researching and I am handling photos and writing. This is very much our routine at the end of the day.
And soon it will be time for bed.
Thursday, October 18, 2018
What a terrific day we have had!! The sun was up bright and early. A gentle seabreeze ruffled the palm trees and the water in the Indian Ocean flowed gently upon the shore. It was an invitation to be out in the world!!
Following our now familiar and delicious breakfast at Chevalier Bay, we gathered our snorkelling gear and headed to the beach. Jim has found a website that reviews snorkelling areas all over the world and the area we were in yesterday was ranked among the best.
http://www.snorkeling-report.com/destination/snorkeling-praslin-seychelles/
We donned our equipment including my prescription mask (I like to see the fish, not just blobs of colour.) and waded into the warm water. It was only a short distance from the shore to the rocks and coral and then the magic began!! Although we had been in this area yesterday, we had not explored very far from the shoreline. Today we swam and floated much further out amid the coral and we were rewarded for the effort. Fish of all sizes and colours roamed the water below us. Blue, yellow, white, black, orange, striped, dotted, intricate designs, small and large. Fish in schools of hundreds and fish swimming happily independent. Fish at the bottom, fish under rocks, fish swarming around us. One even came and gazed through my mask.
One of the terrific features of this snorkelling area is the relatively shallow depth of the water. This meant that the fish were close enough to be examined clearly, their colours, designs, shape and behaviour. Some flitted from place to place; some travelled in schools to numerous to count; some were bottom dwellers; some hid among the coral crevices; some species gathered together and others stuck with their own. We were delighted to see many species that we have seen in other places and also some new ones for us. There was also a manta ray that floated through the mix.
I had our underwater camera with us today and I was pleased at how many photos actually yielded a relatively fine photo. I struggle with taking underwater photos ... getting the zoom at just the right place, finding the fish to photograph and then dealing with all the movement. The fish is moving, the water is moving, I am moving and the camera is moving as well. It is a wonder that any of the photos come out in focus.
All in all the time spent in the water this morning was one of the most enjoyable snorkelling experiences we have had anywhere. If only we had more days ....
About noon, we returned to the guesthouse. Jim was going off on an adventure of his own in the afternoon and I simply wanted to relax in the beauty of the space we were in.
So Jim headed off too take a water taxi to Curieuse Island where the giant tortoises live. I mentioned yesterday that these tortoises were on the verge of extinction when someone had the idea that if Curieuse Island became a leper colony, no one would visit. An idea that worked. Now there are about 400 tortoises that inhabit the island (no people at all) and live quite happily munching the vegetation that is available to them
There are two ways to visit the island. One is a full day tour of 2 islands and the other is to take the water taxi and arrange for a pick-up time about 3 hours later. That is what Jim did.
He landed at an area quite close to the tortoises and spent time interacting with them. Like many species of wildlife, these tortoises have adapted to human contact and clearly expected Jim to be a food source for them. He was not but he did spend some time petting them. Yes .... petting them. Apparently they love to have their necks and feet scratched. In ecstacy, they extend their necks as fully as they can as someone strokes and scratches their leathery skin. Jim said it was quite a sight to see these large prehistoric, shelled animals give into the touch of the human hand. He quite enjoyed his time with these strange creatures.
Next came a rugged walk across the island, including the crossing of two steep and high hills. The trail was partly protected by vegetation but much of it was open to the glaring sun in the heat of the day. Fortunately Jim had both a hat and water with him. The goal was to visit the main buildings of the former leper colony which have been transformed into a museum about the island. Sadly, the museum closed at 3 pm and Jim arrived about 3:30. Of course, he was disappointed and simply had to wait for the water taxi to come to pick him up. (Sometimes a formal tour does have better information than an independent traveller. It's just not our preferred style of exploring.) Jim arrived back at our guesthouse in the late afternoon following a very pleasant and smooth crossing of the water between Curieuse and Praslin Islands.
Meanwhile, I had enjoyed a perfectly relaxing and peaceful afternoon. I sat in the open air restaurant of the guesthouse downloading photographs and preparing our Seychelles photobook. Already it is fun to reflect on the range of activities we have done since we left home. Has it really only been 6 days? I partook of a delicious tuna steak for lunch and then had a luxurious nap in our air conditioned room. I moved to the front porch of our 'home' where I could see the water and hear the gentle slap of waves on the shore while I sipped on water and read my current book for a lengthy period of time.
When Jim arrived home, the bar and restaurant at our 'home' were closed for the evening so Jim set off again on a short walk to the Honesty Bar, located along a rugged path along the rocky part of the beach. There is no road to access this bar and no way to moor a boat. The only way to get there is along the path Jim used. What is unique about this bar is that the bartender is only there sometimes. If he is there he serves drinks with a flourish. If he is not there, he leaves beer, alcohol and mix for the partaking of passing guests. He asks only that you are 'honest' about what you drink and leave him appropriate payment in a receptacle intended for that purpose. Apparently, it works because it has continued to function in this way for many years. Happily, when Jim arrived the bartender was there and provided two gin and tonics for take-out. Another phenomenon unheard of in most places. I was a very appreciate participant in the consumption of these beverages. Thank you, Jim.
Knowing that the local restaurant was closed this evening, I had ordered two sandwiches for us to enjoy on our front porch. With all the lights out around the guesthouse, the area was amazingly dark. We are so accustomed to ambient light softly illuminating the spaces around us that it is quite startling not to be able to see beyond a short distance at all. Only the moon and the stars cast light on this part of the world at that time.
But out of the darkness arrived two new guests for the night. They had arrived by taxi when we were in our room and quite took us by surprise. Once they settled into their room, we enjoyed a very pleasant evening on the porch. They were from London (UK) and are also intrepid travellers and avid snorkelers. There was no shortage of conversation well into the evening.
Friday, October 19, 2018
Today was primarily a travelling day. We enjoyed our final breakfast at Chevalier Bay Guesthouse and packed our bags. A final few photos at the beach brought this delightful experience to an end and we headed off along the sandy beach road for the last time.
At first we travelled along familiar roads until we came to the intersection where the road to the right rose high into the mountains leading to a destination known as Zimbabwe. We had heard the the road was steep and narrow but well worth the effort for the views at the top of the mountain. Well, the road was steep and narrow. The many, many hairpin turns were hair raising. Our little car with its standard transmission remained in first gear all the up the several kilometres we climbed. The vegetation along the sides of the road marred the views of the sea and surrounding landscape and the treacherous bends and the drop offs where there should have been road shoulders or guard rails were intimidating to say the least. But we prevailed. Some who are reading this would say that I can drive on any road in any condition but this was definitely testing my limits. So we finally reached the end of the road. A dirt trail continued up the mountain but we stopped where there was at least a reasonable space in which to turn around. And, guess what? We still had not found the magnificent views that had been described to us. So ... we turned the car to begin our descent down the same steep and narrow road we had just traversed. The good news is that occasionally on the way down some beautiful vistas emerged which made the trip almost worthwhile. In the future, the only Zimbabwe I am interested in visiting is the 'real' one in Africa.
Reaching the intersection where we had to turned to go to Zimbabwe, we turned right and followed the seashore through some very pretty countryside. Praslin Island is a granite island. There is evidence of this everywhere, especially in the many locations where enormous granite boulders have tumbled down the mountainsides and formed huge piles of rock in many locations. Some of these piles cause the road to diverge from a straight path. Some of them have made the road somewhat hilly in places. And some of the boulders have made their way onto the sea shore and have created large barriers along the sandy beaches, places where waves can crash upon the rocks and spill spray high into the air. In all cases, the boulders are well worn with age and erosion creating some pretty spectacular shapes and contours. They certainly add to the beauty of this island.
We stopped at a lovely spot on the beach in Anse Volbert for a drink. A citrus blend for me and a chococoffee for Jim. Cafe des Arts was a veritable festival of art forms, both inside and out. Art deco picnic tables, numerous sculptures of various materials, fountains where water flowed over cement wheels, hanging baskets painted in pastel colours, murals painted on walls, bright primary colours of paint on the building facade. Even the washroom had a beautiful table made from an exquisite piece of driftwood and a porcelain sink that was designed and coloured to match the table. Not only was it a beautiful natural setting but the artiness (is that a word?) of the cafe added to the atmosphere in a most appealing way.
Refreshed, we continued on until we came to a junction providing the option of following road we had already travelled a few times or making a turn to the left and exploring a new section of road. Either road would take us to the airport in plenty of time to make our flight. Of course, us being who we are, we chose the new road. On the map, I admit, it looked like a gentle road along the seacoast. How wrong we were! Only a couple of kilometres into the trip, we once again faced a very steep and winding roadway which was necessary to cross over a peninsula which separated one part of the island from the other. Up, up, up we went, winding and wending our way toward another pinnacle before plunging down the other side. You would think we would be increasing our comfort level with each treacherous road we vanquished but my tummy and my temper told me that we were not getting any braver as the kilometres mounted behind us. Even the strategically placed mirrors to warn of oncoming traffic somehow inly intensified the experience. Meeting a car, a truck or a bus was a terrifying thought as we wended our way forward. At one point, when I thought it could not get any worse, we were confronted with a sign that warned us of the 20% grade we were about to drive down. Imagine ... 20%!!! Slowly, we made it to the bottom, only to have to climb yet another steep and winding slope on which we came to the sign that indicated the next grade would be 30%!! What choice did we have? The other challenge of the road was the increasing traffic as we made our way toward the more populated area of the island. And, the lack of road shoulders gave one the opportunity to see the sea far below where the car would plunge in response to any misjudgement by the driver. It was a scary drive, to be sure. And all on the left hand side of the road!
Finally, we the road levelled out and we were actually able to enjoy the seaside scenery. Aquamarine water punctuated by white frothy foam as waves broke. Granite boulders punctuated the shoreling and tree lined beaches which provided shelter from the noon day sun. We passed by lots of coral reefs close to shore just begging for our attention. But, alas, we had a plane to catch.
We arrived in good time at the airport and were moved to an earlier flight. We were delighted. The flight from Praslin back to Mahe (the main island) was only 25 minutes in length. No beverage service on that flight. The plane's capacity was about 20 people and there were some empty seats. The pilots were visible to the passengers and interacted with the people at the front of the plane. We could watch them maneuver various controls as the plane took off, cruised and landed. Security was in place at the airport but the attendants paid very little attention to it. Our bags were xrayed twice but no one seemed to be too concerned about the large container of mango juice or the massive water bottle we were carrying. We are still sipping on that water as I write these words.
Shortly after we landed, a driver from our accommodation on Mahe arrived to pick us up and we sat back and relaxed for the next 45 minutes until we reached our destination, Captain's Villa. It is a very different kind of place from the guesthouse at Chevalier Bay. Captain's Villa is only two years old, built in a colonial style with five guestrooms on the second floor. Our room is spacious, well equipped and spotlessly clean. We even have a small balcony with chairs which we may use when the day cools off. The biggest difference is that our room looks over a very busy road and, although the sea is only a few steps on the other side of the road, we cannot see it at all because of all the mature trees that have grown so tall. We will have to be content with listening to the waves.
After settling in, Jim walked to a nearby store to get some necessary supplies ( ie gin and tonic) and we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink. Dinner is available at the guesthouse it preordered which we did as we checked in. At 7 pm, we proceeded to the large front porch where we were seated at a table that was identified by our room name (Sailfish). We enjoyed a delicious multi course fish dinner (tuna for Jim, red snapper for me) and gentle evening temperatures. A very pleasant way to top off the day.
Saturday, October 20, 2018
Today was a particularly quiet day. Breakfast was delightful, served by friendly staff at our guesthouse. The server held the breakfast menu and told us that pancakes were the most common breakfast but we could have eggs if we preferred. He never let us actually see the menu but offered a cheese omelette when I said I would really prefer eggs. The omelette was delicious. Jim's pancake was so thin it was more like a crepe, served with honey from bees in the backyard here. A lovely fresh fruit plate accompanied the main course including papaya, banana, apple, orange, honeydew melon and soursop, a fruit we have not often encountered. It sure was sour!! And we had starfruit jam for our toast. All in all ... a delicious way to start the day.
After breakfast, our plan was to head to the beach. But we puttered and then remembered that we needed to get postcards and stamps today and we did not know what time the post office closed. So Jim took a local bus to a nearby town and got both postcards and stamps. Back at the guesthouse, we were still in puttering mode. It took us until noon to get organized to walk across the road to the beach.
The beach is not visible from our guesthouse but we could hear breakers softly crashing on the shore. There were two reasons for that. First of all, the waves were somewhat large but not nearly as large as they would have been but for the reef just off shore where the rollers coming in from the open sea were breaking. What we were hearing were the swells that had reestablished themselves between the reef and the shore. The second reason for the larger sound was that the beach itself was quite steep and the waves had no opportunity to slow down in shallower water as they approached the beach. They were still quite forceful as they came upon the land.
An ominous sky and the large breakers made a pretty dramatic scene in the distance.
The beach itself was a long stretch of lovely sand, once again shaded by mature trees that grew along the top of the embankment. It was a steep slope that led from the path across the beach to the water and once at the water's edge it was only a few steps in until we were at chest depth. Of course, the depth varied from just above our knees to the chest with each swell that flowed to shore. There was a substantial undertow that knocked us offer our feet and offered rides out into the depths. It was tricky to maintain our balance and remain on our feet as we stepped among the coral that was very close to the shoreline. Thank goodness for our reinforced sole water shoes.
Once we were in the water, we were able to move around more freely, always aware of the undertow and the now evident sea urchins that were perched among the coral, sometimes in groups of 10 or more. We certainly did not want to step down on one of those, even with our shoes on.
It took us some time to get accustomed to the ride these waves were giving us before we had the confidence to don our snorkel gear and give way to the whims of the water. What surprised us was the variety and number of fish that were in this close to the shore. Some were surprisingly large. Most species were small, hovering in the crevasses of the coral as if they too were trying to hold their own against the force of the water. Occasionally there was a school of fish, small almost transparent white ones, that would brave the brink together and swim enthusiastically around us. It does feel a bit unsettling to be totally surrounded by hundreds of fish.
I tried my hand at the underwater camera again with some success. I am getting better at holding it steady and pushing the right buttons to zoom in and out as well as take a photo. Only occasionally now do I hit the 'off' button and have to start all over. I actually was able to chase a particularly colourful fish and got a pretty good shot of it in the end. I will not tell you how many poor photos I had to delete in search of one good one.
As we drifted atop the water the rollers kept coming in. With each the depth of the water below us changed and the sea urchins cam closer to our knees in between swells. After a reasonable length of time, we both decided these were not the ideal conditions for good snorkelling and gave into the waves one last time. We were carried toward the shore and before our knees started to scrape the coral, we scrambled to our feet and stood our ground against the undertow. Hand in hand we took the final few steps to the shore and climbed the steep embankment to the place we had left our bag.
Happily, someone had left an abandoned boat (we might call it a row boat) at that location and were able to place our bag inside the boat and under the bow, lest it rained while we were in the water. We were able to use the sides of the boat as seats, thereby avoiding sitting down on the sticky sand. It was a great perch from which to watch the water and organize ourselves. And it was under the shade of tall trees so we were protected from the ultraviolet rays. Although the sky was overcast, exposure to the sun at the equator is still an issue and I, for one, had reached my max on this day. One organized, it was a short walk up a path, across the road and back to the guesthouse.
An outdoor shower provided opportunity to rinse off our shoes and feet before heading upstairs to our room. It was luxurious to walk into the air conditioned space and cool off. It was also luxurious to shower in the large and well equipped shower stall in this room. After a refreshing shower, Jim headed once more to the nearby store to get some tonic so we could enjoy our G&T. Then we relaxed and worked on trip planning and blog/photo book until dark fell and it was time for dinner.
Both of us had pre-ordered fish curry for this meal. Because Jim does not care for rice, he ordered fries instead. The chef was fascinated by this, claiming he had never met anyone who ate fries with curry. He actually came out of the kitchen to see what Jim was going to do with this combination. We all had a good laugh.
A lovely garden salad accompanied the meal. Lettuce, tomato, green pepper, red onion all so delicately sliced and chopped that it almost looked like coleslaw. It was refreshingly delicious.
Ice cream for dessert finished off the meal perfectly. We lingered on the open air porch and chatted with a couple from Munich who were also accomplished travellers. What a lovely way to spend part of an evening.
Returning to our room, I almost instantly fell into bed. Jim was working on a mix-up with our next set of tickets - Seychelles to Sri Lanka, Sri Lanka to Singapore, Singapore to Australia. It took several hours and conversations with three different airlines to solve the problem but Jim is very patient yet determined in such matters. When it was all resolved, the lights went out and Jim also fell into bed. Another happy day complete.
Sunday, October 21, 2018
This day began with a gorgeous breakfast of bacon, eggs, fruit juice, a fruit plate and coffee. All served on the front porch by the chef who has taken quite an interest in us and enjoys conversations with us. He is from Sri Lanka and has come here to work because the salaries are higher. He has also worked in Oman and the Maldives. He says this is the best so far.
Our fruit plate this morning consisted of oranges, watermelon, papaya and banana. A side plate of fresh coconut accompanied it.
The archipelago that forms the Seychelles is made up of over 1000 islands ranging from Mahe, the largest and main island (157 sq. km.) to rocky points jutting just above the ocean's surface. Victoria, located on Mahe, is the largest city and the capital of the Seychelles.
As we flew south from Doha, Qatar early this morning, the sun put on a spectacular show in the east, rising slowly behind and then above the horizon and the water. A myriad of oranges, yellows and reds danced on the horizon, making the islands in the distance glitter like sparkling gold. When the sun finally arose, the sky transformed to red. It was amazing to watch from so far above the water.
We disembarked the plane in Victoria (Mahe) and had just a short wait before the final leg of our journey commenced, a 25 minute flight on a very small plane to the island of Praslin. We were very tired and simply eager to arrive. The airport was small and efficient and it was not very long before we were on the road in our tiny rental vehicle making our way along the only main road on the island toward our home for the next 4 days.
The road on Praslin is winding and narrow with very deep ditches with vertical walls. Driving on the left and driving a manual transmission are both skills that are a bit rusty. Especially in a deep state of fatigue, it was necessary to will myself to concentrate as we made our way about 20 kilometres to our guesthouse. Success was upon us as we travelled along the final short stretch of this circuitous route, including a couple of very steep slopes as we ascended or descended the mountains. The last 200 meters were pure sand. We wondered if we were even on a road. But then, Le Chevalier Bay Guesthouse appeared and we were home.
A lovely Australian family operates the guesthouse and shared their warmth in their welcome. The land has been in the family for over 100 years, first owned by Vito's grandfather, then by Vito's father, and just 4 months ago, it was transferred into Vito's name and the family relocated from Perth to Chevalier Bay to become innkeepers.
Jim, as always, had researched well and we immediately fell in love with the guesthouse on this remote tip of the island. The beach, just across the sandy road, has been dubbed by some as the best beach on the island. There are shade trees along the shore, a beautiful expanse of sand inviting on to walk, a gradual entrance into the water, water which is as warm as tropical water can be, absolutely luxurious. There are also reefs to the north and south of the main beach where snorkelling is reported to be amazing - giant sea turtles, manta rays, and a myriad of colourful fish just waiting to be discovered. There is also a remarkable outcrop of huge granite rocks that have been deposited in a cluster on the shore. From whence did these arrive? They certainly provide many wonderful photography opportunities, with or without people in them.
Lunch, followed by a welcome nap, followed by a refreshing shower gave us some energy to make our way through the rest of the day. Sadly, bathing suits and clean clothes were non-existent as our large suitcases had both been left behind in Doha due to an extremely tight connection time. Qatar Airways has confidently told us that they will arrive at our guesthouse tomorrow.
An afternoon coffee, a drive to the store for some snacks and drinks, and a short walk on the beach on in the water completed the daylight hours. By the time we returned to the guesthouse, it was dark and everyone was using headlights. It seemed to make the narrow road even more treacherous. Once again, we arrived at our accommodation safely.
As we awaited our dinner, we encountered another couple and engaged in a lively conversation with them, Tim and Zoe from California. Zoe actually works in Iraq on a major project refurbishing the Mosul Dam. She and Tim meet at various places around the world to travel together. They, like us, have had some amazing experiences. We decided to have dinner together which was a lot of fun, time filled with stories, laughter, and tasty food.
And now it is 10 pm, local time (Seychelles is 8 hours ahead of Eastern Standard time) and it is time for bed. No doubt tomorrow will be another wonderful day in this island paradise.
Tuesday, October 16, 2018
The day dawned bright and beautiful ... and so did we. A good night's sleep can cure whatever ails you. We were both feeling rested and energetic and up for an adventure. After a delicious breakfast served by our hosts, we set out to explore at least part of this small island.
One of the challenges we faced is the lack of parking areas anywhere along the roadway. At times the road is too narrow for two cars to meet. One has to calculate carefully so that you do not end up headlight to headlight with an oncoming vehicle. At times the roadway is just barely wide enough for two cars to pass by one another. My approach is to stop and let the other car do the manouvering. A somewhat wider roadway has a faint white middle line which exclusively indicates and no passing zone. And finally, there is a part of the road that is wide enough for two cars to pass by one another comfortably. This stretch has the lanes divided by a solid yellow line. Busses and trucks can pose a challenge on any of these roads. On no section of this road were there shoulders or parking lanes. Vehicles simply stopped to run into a shop, to buy some fresh mangoes from a roadside stand, even to take photos of some of the many stunning views. Tourists, no doubt!!
The terrain on Praslin is extremely mountainous. High on the hills it is possible to see vast seascapes and other nearby islands. The waterways are quite quiet except for an occasional floating taxi or a chartered catamaran heading for the next quiet bay to do some snorkelling, fishing, swimming or all of the above. Thick vegetation lines the hillsides and valleys. It varies from tall palm trees to thick deciduous forests, to scrubby shrubs ad grasses. All the vegetation is very much alive and thriving.
There is little sign of serious agriculture. Most food products are imported although local fish is available in some shops and restaurants. Prices are sky high to eat out or to purchase food at grocery stores. A simple plate of grilled fish in a restaurant is 310 Seychelle rupees (approx $30.00 Cdn) and a creole shrimp dish is 450 Seychelle rupees (approx $45.00 Cdn) A pineapple in the grocery store costs about $19.00 Cdn. To date, we have only eaten in 2 restaurants and in both, the food was delicious and nicely presented on the plates.
We did make a stop in a Praslin National Park, a World Heritage Area, to visit the Vallée de Mai. This lush tropical area features several species native to the Seychelles. A very knowledgable guide led a tour through the forest, pointing out both vegetation and wildlife. Along the way, a Seychelles tree frog was spotted; many Seychelles bulbul (bird) were seen; a Seychelles blue pigeon was visible but would not show his face, only his backside. Sadly, the elusive Seychelles Black Parrot was neither seen nor heard on this tour in spite of a valiant effort by the tour guide to find one.
The most significant vegetation found in this park is the Coco de Mer. It is one of six endemic palm species found in this valley. Its claim to fame is that it produces the largest seed in the world, gaining it the World Heritage Area status. Coco de Mer only grows naturally on this island and nearby Curieuse Island. The female tree produces a fruit up to 25 kilograms. It's distinct shape similar to a woman's pelvic region gained it notariety in former royal courts. The male species is equally striking. Fallic shapes rise many feet from the leafy crowns. Pollination occurs through wind action or by green geckoes who carry pollen from the male plant to the female plant. After the fertilized seed falls to the ground, the female plant drips nutrients from its leaves to the ground where fallen seeds germinate. Reminiscent of maternal care, it is unique in the plant world.
It was time to stop for lunch so we headed to a highly recommended restaurant that, by reputation, serves excellent food and has amazing views. Sadly, when we arrived, having made it up the treacherously steep and long driveway, it was closed for renovations and will reopen several days after we depart. We did take time to drink in the view though. It certainly lived up to its description.
So we headed back toward our guesthouse and stopped for lunch at Bon Bon Plume, another highly recommended eatery located right on the beach. The food was delicious and plentiful. Jim had creole shrimp and I had curried crab. Both dishes were excellent although I will say the crab took a long time to remove from the shell and my fingers were covered with curry colour. Our table overlooked Anse Lazio Bay, a very sheltered bay which attracts a large number of chartered sailing ships. Seven were anchored in the bay while we ate. It was amazing to see the kinds of water toys that such ships carry. The passengers were certainly having a great time on the water.
We were very close to 'home' and the afternoon was waning. We returned to our guesthouse and once again had the luxury of a late afternoon nap. It is hard to be patient with the need to adjust to our new time zone.
Because we are so close to the equator (between 4 and 10º south), day and night are almost equal in length. At approximately 6 pm, the sun makes a rapid descent in the west and at 6 am, the sun reappears in the east. There is virtually no twilight. The world transforms in a matter of minutes from light to dark and dark to light. This means the evening begins at 6 and extends many hours into the night. We are far out into the countryside and there is virtually no ambient light. We have spent the last two evenings sitting on the wide covered porch of our guesthouse. It is so quiet and peaceful there.
And another day draws to a close ...
PS A very exciting event occurred during Tuesday afternoon. Our luggage arrived!!! Right into our room!!!
Wednesday, October 17, 2018
We have not forgotten that this is a game-changing day for Canada. Consumption of cannibis has gained legal status.
So now we can swim! And swim we did. We had another delicious breakfast at the guesthouse and headed immediately to the beach, snorkelling gear in hand. we are located on Anse Lazio Bay which features an amazing sand beach as well as two significant coral deposits where snorkelling is great.
We started the day at the north end of the bay, taking time to simply enjoy the luxury of being in a tropical sea. The water was pristeen and warm enough to walk in with nary a shiver. Of course, we took some photos (here we are!!) and settled ourselves in a comfortable and shady location. Lathered with sunscreen, we both made our way into the water and luxuriated in the beauty and the comfort of this natural phenomenon. Many of you know that I am a floater. I simply lay back and let the water do the rest. I enjoyed many minutes of this effortless activity before becoming more playful interacting with the water and with Jim.
While enjoying our initial swim, we were also watching other people who were snorkelling. We determined where we felt the best area would be and donned our snorkelling gear and headed over there. We were not disappointed. In fact we were amazed at the variety of species and size of fish we saw. The water was relatively shallow so it was easy to see fish at all levels. It took a little while to adjust to breathing through our snorkels but once we mastered that again we were away to the races. The coral was not very colourful but the range of fish made up for that.
Somewhat later, we paused to have some lunch, again at the Bon Bon Plume. Delicious yesterday, it was equally tasty today. Jim had grilled fish and I had shrimp creole. Yum!
Jim took a short nap and I enjoyed my book while I waited for him. And then ... back into the water we went. More fish, more floating. It was not as great as this morning as the tide had receded a lot leaving sandy water behind and some very shallow viewing areas. Nonetheless, we had a good time and did not get out of the water until we were quite exhausted. Fortunately the car was close by and so was our guesthouse.
But there was one more thing to do before we headed 'home'. Giant tortoises are native to some islands on the Seychelles. Aldabra is the only island where the tortoises did not become extinct because tortoises were used as a meat source for passing ships. Charles Darwin suggested to someone that to ensure that the Aldabra tortoises did not also go extinct, that some of the tortoises should be moved to Curieuse Island to preserve them. On this advice, action was taken and the tortoise populations on Curieuse and Aldabra are still alive and well. Perhaps this has something to do with the remoteness and inaccessibility of Aldabra. And maybe because, following the moving of the tortoises to Curieuse, that island was declared a leper colony and no one was allowed to visit. Hmmm ... interesting thinking.
At any rate, about 20 giant tortoises are also in a small enclosure at Bon Bon Plume. So we took a few moments to visit them there. It was like a flashback to visiting the Galapagos Islands in 1977. Huge creatures, more than a metre across the shell, prehistoric in appearance, wide awake and watching us closely. Unlike in the Galapagos in '77, we were not allowed to touch them. And they were not active in the heat of the afternoon. Some of them did move their heads which reassured us that they were indeed alive. Nonetheless, it was an awesome sight!!
Now it was time to go home, remove the salt water from our bodies and relax for the evening. We sat on the porch until well after dark, chatting with a young couple from Germany who are travelling with their 3 children. They were hoping they would all be asleep when they went back into their apartment.
And now we are in our room. Jim is reading and researching and I am handling photos and writing. This is very much our routine at the end of the day.
And soon it will be time for bed.
Thursday, October 18, 2018
What a terrific day we have had!! The sun was up bright and early. A gentle seabreeze ruffled the palm trees and the water in the Indian Ocean flowed gently upon the shore. It was an invitation to be out in the world!!
Following our now familiar and delicious breakfast at Chevalier Bay, we gathered our snorkelling gear and headed to the beach. Jim has found a website that reviews snorkelling areas all over the world and the area we were in yesterday was ranked among the best.
http://www.snorkeling-report.com/destination/snorkeling-praslin-seychelles/
We donned our equipment including my prescription mask (I like to see the fish, not just blobs of colour.) and waded into the warm water. It was only a short distance from the shore to the rocks and coral and then the magic began!! Although we had been in this area yesterday, we had not explored very far from the shoreline. Today we swam and floated much further out amid the coral and we were rewarded for the effort. Fish of all sizes and colours roamed the water below us. Blue, yellow, white, black, orange, striped, dotted, intricate designs, small and large. Fish in schools of hundreds and fish swimming happily independent. Fish at the bottom, fish under rocks, fish swarming around us. One even came and gazed through my mask.
One of the terrific features of this snorkelling area is the relatively shallow depth of the water. This meant that the fish were close enough to be examined clearly, their colours, designs, shape and behaviour. Some flitted from place to place; some travelled in schools to numerous to count; some were bottom dwellers; some hid among the coral crevices; some species gathered together and others stuck with their own. We were delighted to see many species that we have seen in other places and also some new ones for us. There was also a manta ray that floated through the mix.
I had our underwater camera with us today and I was pleased at how many photos actually yielded a relatively fine photo. I struggle with taking underwater photos ... getting the zoom at just the right place, finding the fish to photograph and then dealing with all the movement. The fish is moving, the water is moving, I am moving and the camera is moving as well. It is a wonder that any of the photos come out in focus.
All in all the time spent in the water this morning was one of the most enjoyable snorkelling experiences we have had anywhere. If only we had more days ....
About noon, we returned to the guesthouse. Jim was going off on an adventure of his own in the afternoon and I simply wanted to relax in the beauty of the space we were in.
So Jim headed off too take a water taxi to Curieuse Island where the giant tortoises live. I mentioned yesterday that these tortoises were on the verge of extinction when someone had the idea that if Curieuse Island became a leper colony, no one would visit. An idea that worked. Now there are about 400 tortoises that inhabit the island (no people at all) and live quite happily munching the vegetation that is available to them
There are two ways to visit the island. One is a full day tour of 2 islands and the other is to take the water taxi and arrange for a pick-up time about 3 hours later. That is what Jim did.
He landed at an area quite close to the tortoises and spent time interacting with them. Like many species of wildlife, these tortoises have adapted to human contact and clearly expected Jim to be a food source for them. He was not but he did spend some time petting them. Yes .... petting them. Apparently they love to have their necks and feet scratched. In ecstacy, they extend their necks as fully as they can as someone strokes and scratches their leathery skin. Jim said it was quite a sight to see these large prehistoric, shelled animals give into the touch of the human hand. He quite enjoyed his time with these strange creatures.
Next came a rugged walk across the island, including the crossing of two steep and high hills. The trail was partly protected by vegetation but much of it was open to the glaring sun in the heat of the day. Fortunately Jim had both a hat and water with him. The goal was to visit the main buildings of the former leper colony which have been transformed into a museum about the island. Sadly, the museum closed at 3 pm and Jim arrived about 3:30. Of course, he was disappointed and simply had to wait for the water taxi to come to pick him up. (Sometimes a formal tour does have better information than an independent traveller. It's just not our preferred style of exploring.) Jim arrived back at our guesthouse in the late afternoon following a very pleasant and smooth crossing of the water between Curieuse and Praslin Islands.
Meanwhile, I had enjoyed a perfectly relaxing and peaceful afternoon. I sat in the open air restaurant of the guesthouse downloading photographs and preparing our Seychelles photobook. Already it is fun to reflect on the range of activities we have done since we left home. Has it really only been 6 days? I partook of a delicious tuna steak for lunch and then had a luxurious nap in our air conditioned room. I moved to the front porch of our 'home' where I could see the water and hear the gentle slap of waves on the shore while I sipped on water and read my current book for a lengthy period of time.
When Jim arrived home, the bar and restaurant at our 'home' were closed for the evening so Jim set off again on a short walk to the Honesty Bar, located along a rugged path along the rocky part of the beach. There is no road to access this bar and no way to moor a boat. The only way to get there is along the path Jim used. What is unique about this bar is that the bartender is only there sometimes. If he is there he serves drinks with a flourish. If he is not there, he leaves beer, alcohol and mix for the partaking of passing guests. He asks only that you are 'honest' about what you drink and leave him appropriate payment in a receptacle intended for that purpose. Apparently, it works because it has continued to function in this way for many years. Happily, when Jim arrived the bartender was there and provided two gin and tonics for take-out. Another phenomenon unheard of in most places. I was a very appreciate participant in the consumption of these beverages. Thank you, Jim.
Knowing that the local restaurant was closed this evening, I had ordered two sandwiches for us to enjoy on our front porch. With all the lights out around the guesthouse, the area was amazingly dark. We are so accustomed to ambient light softly illuminating the spaces around us that it is quite startling not to be able to see beyond a short distance at all. Only the moon and the stars cast light on this part of the world at that time.
But out of the darkness arrived two new guests for the night. They had arrived by taxi when we were in our room and quite took us by surprise. Once they settled into their room, we enjoyed a very pleasant evening on the porch. They were from London (UK) and are also intrepid travellers and avid snorkelers. There was no shortage of conversation well into the evening.
Friday, October 19, 2018
Today was primarily a travelling day. We enjoyed our final breakfast at Chevalier Bay Guesthouse and packed our bags. A final few photos at the beach brought this delightful experience to an end and we headed off along the sandy beach road for the last time.
At first we travelled along familiar roads until we came to the intersection where the road to the right rose high into the mountains leading to a destination known as Zimbabwe. We had heard the the road was steep and narrow but well worth the effort for the views at the top of the mountain. Well, the road was steep and narrow. The many, many hairpin turns were hair raising. Our little car with its standard transmission remained in first gear all the up the several kilometres we climbed. The vegetation along the sides of the road marred the views of the sea and surrounding landscape and the treacherous bends and the drop offs where there should have been road shoulders or guard rails were intimidating to say the least. But we prevailed. Some who are reading this would say that I can drive on any road in any condition but this was definitely testing my limits. So we finally reached the end of the road. A dirt trail continued up the mountain but we stopped where there was at least a reasonable space in which to turn around. And, guess what? We still had not found the magnificent views that had been described to us. So ... we turned the car to begin our descent down the same steep and narrow road we had just traversed. The good news is that occasionally on the way down some beautiful vistas emerged which made the trip almost worthwhile. In the future, the only Zimbabwe I am interested in visiting is the 'real' one in Africa.
Reaching the intersection where we had to turned to go to Zimbabwe, we turned right and followed the seashore through some very pretty countryside. Praslin Island is a granite island. There is evidence of this everywhere, especially in the many locations where enormous granite boulders have tumbled down the mountainsides and formed huge piles of rock in many locations. Some of these piles cause the road to diverge from a straight path. Some of them have made the road somewhat hilly in places. And some of the boulders have made their way onto the sea shore and have created large barriers along the sandy beaches, places where waves can crash upon the rocks and spill spray high into the air. In all cases, the boulders are well worn with age and erosion creating some pretty spectacular shapes and contours. They certainly add to the beauty of this island.
We stopped at a lovely spot on the beach in Anse Volbert for a drink. A citrus blend for me and a chococoffee for Jim. Cafe des Arts was a veritable festival of art forms, both inside and out. Art deco picnic tables, numerous sculptures of various materials, fountains where water flowed over cement wheels, hanging baskets painted in pastel colours, murals painted on walls, bright primary colours of paint on the building facade. Even the washroom had a beautiful table made from an exquisite piece of driftwood and a porcelain sink that was designed and coloured to match the table. Not only was it a beautiful natural setting but the artiness (is that a word?) of the cafe added to the atmosphere in a most appealing way.
Refreshed, we continued on until we came to a junction providing the option of following road we had already travelled a few times or making a turn to the left and exploring a new section of road. Either road would take us to the airport in plenty of time to make our flight. Of course, us being who we are, we chose the new road. On the map, I admit, it looked like a gentle road along the seacoast. How wrong we were! Only a couple of kilometres into the trip, we once again faced a very steep and winding roadway which was necessary to cross over a peninsula which separated one part of the island from the other. Up, up, up we went, winding and wending our way toward another pinnacle before plunging down the other side. You would think we would be increasing our comfort level with each treacherous road we vanquished but my tummy and my temper told me that we were not getting any braver as the kilometres mounted behind us. Even the strategically placed mirrors to warn of oncoming traffic somehow inly intensified the experience. Meeting a car, a truck or a bus was a terrifying thought as we wended our way forward. At one point, when I thought it could not get any worse, we were confronted with a sign that warned us of the 20% grade we were about to drive down. Imagine ... 20%!!! Slowly, we made it to the bottom, only to have to climb yet another steep and winding slope on which we came to the sign that indicated the next grade would be 30%!! What choice did we have? The other challenge of the road was the increasing traffic as we made our way toward the more populated area of the island. And, the lack of road shoulders gave one the opportunity to see the sea far below where the car would plunge in response to any misjudgement by the driver. It was a scary drive, to be sure. And all on the left hand side of the road!
Finally, we the road levelled out and we were actually able to enjoy the seaside scenery. Aquamarine water punctuated by white frothy foam as waves broke. Granite boulders punctuated the shoreling and tree lined beaches which provided shelter from the noon day sun. We passed by lots of coral reefs close to shore just begging for our attention. But, alas, we had a plane to catch.
We arrived in good time at the airport and were moved to an earlier flight. We were delighted. The flight from Praslin back to Mahe (the main island) was only 25 minutes in length. No beverage service on that flight. The plane's capacity was about 20 people and there were some empty seats. The pilots were visible to the passengers and interacted with the people at the front of the plane. We could watch them maneuver various controls as the plane took off, cruised and landed. Security was in place at the airport but the attendants paid very little attention to it. Our bags were xrayed twice but no one seemed to be too concerned about the large container of mango juice or the massive water bottle we were carrying. We are still sipping on that water as I write these words.
Shortly after we landed, a driver from our accommodation on Mahe arrived to pick us up and we sat back and relaxed for the next 45 minutes until we reached our destination, Captain's Villa. It is a very different kind of place from the guesthouse at Chevalier Bay. Captain's Villa is only two years old, built in a colonial style with five guestrooms on the second floor. Our room is spacious, well equipped and spotlessly clean. We even have a small balcony with chairs which we may use when the day cools off. The biggest difference is that our room looks over a very busy road and, although the sea is only a few steps on the other side of the road, we cannot see it at all because of all the mature trees that have grown so tall. We will have to be content with listening to the waves.
After settling in, Jim walked to a nearby store to get some necessary supplies ( ie gin and tonic) and we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink. Dinner is available at the guesthouse it preordered which we did as we checked in. At 7 pm, we proceeded to the large front porch where we were seated at a table that was identified by our room name (Sailfish). We enjoyed a delicious multi course fish dinner (tuna for Jim, red snapper for me) and gentle evening temperatures. A very pleasant way to top off the day.
Saturday, October 20, 2018
Today was a particularly quiet day. Breakfast was delightful, served by friendly staff at our guesthouse. The server held the breakfast menu and told us that pancakes were the most common breakfast but we could have eggs if we preferred. He never let us actually see the menu but offered a cheese omelette when I said I would really prefer eggs. The omelette was delicious. Jim's pancake was so thin it was more like a crepe, served with honey from bees in the backyard here. A lovely fresh fruit plate accompanied the main course including papaya, banana, apple, orange, honeydew melon and soursop, a fruit we have not often encountered. It sure was sour!! And we had starfruit jam for our toast. All in all ... a delicious way to start the day.
After breakfast, our plan was to head to the beach. But we puttered and then remembered that we needed to get postcards and stamps today and we did not know what time the post office closed. So Jim took a local bus to a nearby town and got both postcards and stamps. Back at the guesthouse, we were still in puttering mode. It took us until noon to get organized to walk across the road to the beach.
The beach is not visible from our guesthouse but we could hear breakers softly crashing on the shore. There were two reasons for that. First of all, the waves were somewhat large but not nearly as large as they would have been but for the reef just off shore where the rollers coming in from the open sea were breaking. What we were hearing were the swells that had reestablished themselves between the reef and the shore. The second reason for the larger sound was that the beach itself was quite steep and the waves had no opportunity to slow down in shallower water as they approached the beach. They were still quite forceful as they came upon the land.
An ominous sky and the large breakers made a pretty dramatic scene in the distance.
The beach itself was a long stretch of lovely sand, once again shaded by mature trees that grew along the top of the embankment. It was a steep slope that led from the path across the beach to the water and once at the water's edge it was only a few steps in until we were at chest depth. Of course, the depth varied from just above our knees to the chest with each swell that flowed to shore. There was a substantial undertow that knocked us offer our feet and offered rides out into the depths. It was tricky to maintain our balance and remain on our feet as we stepped among the coral that was very close to the shoreline. Thank goodness for our reinforced sole water shoes.
Once we were in the water, we were able to move around more freely, always aware of the undertow and the now evident sea urchins that were perched among the coral, sometimes in groups of 10 or more. We certainly did not want to step down on one of those, even with our shoes on.
It took us some time to get accustomed to the ride these waves were giving us before we had the confidence to don our snorkel gear and give way to the whims of the water. What surprised us was the variety and number of fish that were in this close to the shore. Some were surprisingly large. Most species were small, hovering in the crevasses of the coral as if they too were trying to hold their own against the force of the water. Occasionally there was a school of fish, small almost transparent white ones, that would brave the brink together and swim enthusiastically around us. It does feel a bit unsettling to be totally surrounded by hundreds of fish.
I tried my hand at the underwater camera again with some success. I am getting better at holding it steady and pushing the right buttons to zoom in and out as well as take a photo. Only occasionally now do I hit the 'off' button and have to start all over. I actually was able to chase a particularly colourful fish and got a pretty good shot of it in the end. I will not tell you how many poor photos I had to delete in search of one good one.
As we drifted atop the water the rollers kept coming in. With each the depth of the water below us changed and the sea urchins cam closer to our knees in between swells. After a reasonable length of time, we both decided these were not the ideal conditions for good snorkelling and gave into the waves one last time. We were carried toward the shore and before our knees started to scrape the coral, we scrambled to our feet and stood our ground against the undertow. Hand in hand we took the final few steps to the shore and climbed the steep embankment to the place we had left our bag.
Happily, someone had left an abandoned boat (we might call it a row boat) at that location and were able to place our bag inside the boat and under the bow, lest it rained while we were in the water. We were able to use the sides of the boat as seats, thereby avoiding sitting down on the sticky sand. It was a great perch from which to watch the water and organize ourselves. And it was under the shade of tall trees so we were protected from the ultraviolet rays. Although the sky was overcast, exposure to the sun at the equator is still an issue and I, for one, had reached my max on this day. One organized, it was a short walk up a path, across the road and back to the guesthouse.
An outdoor shower provided opportunity to rinse off our shoes and feet before heading upstairs to our room. It was luxurious to walk into the air conditioned space and cool off. It was also luxurious to shower in the large and well equipped shower stall in this room. After a refreshing shower, Jim headed once more to the nearby store to get some tonic so we could enjoy our G&T. Then we relaxed and worked on trip planning and blog/photo book until dark fell and it was time for dinner.
Both of us had pre-ordered fish curry for this meal. Because Jim does not care for rice, he ordered fries instead. The chef was fascinated by this, claiming he had never met anyone who ate fries with curry. He actually came out of the kitchen to see what Jim was going to do with this combination. We all had a good laugh.
A lovely garden salad accompanied the meal. Lettuce, tomato, green pepper, red onion all so delicately sliced and chopped that it almost looked like coleslaw. It was refreshingly delicious.
Ice cream for dessert finished off the meal perfectly. We lingered on the open air porch and chatted with a couple from Munich who were also accomplished travellers. What a lovely way to spend part of an evening.
Returning to our room, I almost instantly fell into bed. Jim was working on a mix-up with our next set of tickets - Seychelles to Sri Lanka, Sri Lanka to Singapore, Singapore to Australia. It took several hours and conversations with three different airlines to solve the problem but Jim is very patient yet determined in such matters. When it was all resolved, the lights went out and Jim also fell into bed. Another happy day complete.
Sunday, October 21, 2018
This day began with a gorgeous breakfast of bacon, eggs, fruit juice, a fruit plate and coffee. All served on the front porch by the chef who has taken quite an interest in us and enjoys conversations with us. He is from Sri Lanka and has come here to work because the salaries are higher. He has also worked in Oman and the Maldives. He says this is the best so far.
Our fruit plate this morning consisted of oranges, watermelon, papaya and banana. A side plate of fresh coconut accompanied it.
The rest of breakfast was just as delicious -
bacon, eggs, grilled tomatoes, toast and coffee. Yum! The bacon had a unique
flavour, a bit sweet mixed with the saltiness. It is clearly prepared slightly
differently here than at home.
It is interesting to ponder food sources here.
On Mahe, we have finally seen some evidence of agriculture in the form of a
very large farm that grows many varieties of fruits and vegetables.
Nonetheless, the local agriculture industry does not produce enough fruit and
veg to feed this nation so significant quantities still need to be imported.
That is one of many factors that makes visiting or living in the Seychelles
very expensive. (Restaurant food on Praslin is almost double the price it is on
Mahe.)
Private homes seem to have various fruit trees -
oranges, coconuts, lemons, papaya, banana as well as local berries and small
fruit - starfruit, soursop, and others. Fish is local all year round and
delicious, I might add. Eggs and chicken seem to be available although we have
not seen a chicken nor heard a rooster anywhere.
Other than that, all food must be imported.
There is very little beef on restaurant menus and I have not seen any pork
(other than bacon). Dairy products come from afar as well as beans and other
legumes. Rice is plentiful and lentils are also on some restaurant menus.
We have just returned from our final snorkelling
outing in the Seychelles. Our kind hostess drove us to Anse Royale, reported to
be the best snorkelling area on this island. With high expectations, we entered
the water. It was high tide and the sandy bottom was quite stirred up. Although
there was plenty of coral close to shore and loads of granite rocks along the
shoreline, we did not encounter many fish. That was disappointing. However, the
water was warm, the sun shone brightly and we made the best of the
outing.
Leaving the beach, we encountered a roadside
stand where a lady was selling cakes and pies (both sweet and savory). Most of
them were made from local produce. We have a piece of coconut cake awaiting us
when we are in need of a snack.
On Sundays, the local busses only run once each
half hour. A bus had just passed us so we decided to splurge and take a taxi
instead. The cake lady summoned a boy who went to a nearby village and came
back in a private taxi. A price for the ride was negotiated and the boy got
half the money. The car was clean, the driver drove safely. He was friendly and
he engaged in a great conversation with us. He also took us right to the front
door of our guesthouse. Do we think we were overcharged for this service?
Absolutely!! But it was convenient and quite a bit more comfortable than
waiting 30 minutes for the bus and then bouncing our way along the road for
several kilometres. It was good to be back in our room.
Organizing our luggage and preparing to depart
lies ahead of us as well as another fine dinner. Tonight we will have
stir-fried noodles with shrimp and a garden salad. Maybe ice cream again for
dessert.
In the meantime, we are sipping our daily
G&Ts and writing postcards home.
Thanks for travelling with us as we explored a
small part of the Seychelles. It is a place worth coming back to.
Next stop - Australia. 'See' you there.
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